Dimensional Knit Winter Dress Coat by Martha L. Calderon

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DESIGN DETAILS
DESIGN NAME:
Dimensional Knit

PRIMARY FUNCTION:
Winter Dress Coat

INSPIRATION:
Since college I have been inspired by his work. Frank Gehry has a very artistic and unique way of designing structures. My knitting style is also well defined and my work can be easily distinguished from others. This futuristic winter coat is unique and sculptural like some of the details in his buildings. This garment was meticulously crafted to resemble the distorted shapes of contrasting organic and geometric lines.

UNIQUE PROPERTIES / PROJECT DESCRIPTION:
This cashmere coat is part of a knitwear collection (Dimensional Knit) which I designed as my final school project. This garment is a one of a kind design, a fully fashioned knit piece with some crochet detail around the waist line and shoulders. The fabric was hand dyed with acid dye to give it a more precise gradient effect. The eccentric yet elegant design, forms shapes like origami around the body. The sculptural look was achieved to give a different look from every angle.

OPERATION / FLOW / INTERACTION:
This coat was design for a Woman who enjoys spending winter time in places like Aspen, Colorado.

PROJECT DURATION AND LOCATION:
I started working on my collection in October 2014 and finished it in January 2015. I did all the knitting at home (San Diego CA) and the dying took place at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles CA. It was exhibited at FIDM Debut 2015 held at the Barker Hangar in Santa Monica.

FITS BEST INTO CATEGORY:
Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design

PRODUCTION / REALIZATION TECHNOLOGY:
this wearable art piece was fully fashioned, made on a 3 gauge flat single bed knitting machine. The cashmere Wool was hand painted with acid-dye, and hand and machine washed. Solid color: The cashmere Yarn was separately dyed, submerged in a acid-dye bath.

SPECIFICATIONS / TECHNICAL PROPERTIES:
POINT OF MEASURE 1st PROTOTYPE 1. Front Length (from HPS) 14 1/2 2. Chest Width (1" below armhole) F: 8 1/4 B: 18 3. Across Shoulder (seam to seam) 13 4. Shoulder Width (HPS to armhole) 4 5. Across Chest (middle of armhole) 6 6. Across Back (middle of armhole) 15 1/2 7. Bottom Trim Height 1 8. Sweep (above rib trim) 52 3/4 9. Sleeve Length (from armhole ) 18 1/2 9.1 Sleeve Length (from CB neck) 3 10. Armhole (straight) 8 11. Muscle Width (1" below armhole) 10 12. Elbow Width (9" from sleeve opening) 10 13. Sleeve Opening Width (above trim) 9 3/4 13.1 Sleeve Opening Width (at opening) 1 1/8 9 3/4 14. Cuff Height 12 1/2 "15. Neck Drop Front (HPS to middle of top button)" 1/8 7 3/4 16. Neck Drop Back (HPS to seam) 1/8 3/4 17. Neck Width (seam to seam) 8 18. Collar/Neck Trim Height (at center back) 4 19. CF Placket Width 1 20. Shoulder Slope 1 21. Sleeve Cap Height (underarm to top ) 3

TAGS:
Knitwear, wearable art, futuristic, dimension, non-traditional, origami, asymmetry, handmade, softness, complexity, exclusive, innovative, vibrant

RESEARCH ABSTRACT:
I was drawn into the architectural work of Frank Gehry because of its restless imagination and unique artistic process. I like the fact that his intended purpose for each structure does not reflect specific social ideas. When I designed this piece, I wanted to focus on the main characteristics of the E.M.P building; the aluminium and steel shingles looked as if they were draped like fabric over the main structure and the soft look of the surface transforms light, shadow, and materials into a dynamic building. I wanted to achieved something that had this futuristic and sculptural look, so I added some dimension to the fabric when I knitted it. the structure of the crochet detail was made by wrapping plastic rings together to give the coat a more architectural feeling.

CHALLENGE:
Creating a gradient fabric with an animal fiber was very challenging and a long process. Acid-dye adsorbs rapidly into the fabric, so every brush stroke was permanent. The fabric had to be washed by hand to avoid getting stains from the diluted dye. Every piece had to be wash separately until the water ran clear. Shrinkage was also a factor, wool tends to shrink significantly. I could not assembly the garment until the dying process was complete.

ADDED DATE:
2016-03-29 03:37:45

TEAM MEMBERS (1) :
Chairperson of Fashion Knitwear Design: Anne Bennion

IMAGE CREDITS:
Image #1: Photographer Marco Siguenza, Alberta Gallery, 2015
Image #2: Photographer Marco Siguenza, Alberta Gallery close-up, 2015
Image #3: Photographer Marco Siguenza, Alberta Callery close-up 2, 2015

Visit the following page to learn more: http://www.marthacalderon.com
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CLIENT/STUDIO/BRAND DETAILS
NAME:
Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising

PROFILE:
The design aesthetic comes from artisan work. Some of the qualities are dimension, depth, and the sculptural feel which makes it unique. The handmade touch can be appreciated everywhere on the garment. One of the advantages of knitting a garment is to be able to have control over the fabric as well as texture, content, weight, color, and shape. Dimensional Knitwear has the ability to hug the contours of the human body thus transforming the knitted garment into a whole new silhouette.

NOMINATION DETAILS

Dimensional Knit Winter Dress Coat by Martha L. Calderon is a Nominee in Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design Category.

· This project is currently confidential as results have not been announced yet. Images and further details of the project is not available for public yet, please check back later. If you are the owner of this design, please login to view the images.

· The profile and other works by Martha L. Calderon is also kept secret. This information will also be available later.
AWARD DETAILS

Dimensional Knit Winter Dress Coat by Martha L. Calderon is Winner in Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design Category, 2016 - 2017.

· Read the interview with designer Martha L. Calderon for design Dimensional Knit here.

· Press Members: Login or Register to request an exclusive interview with Martha L. Calderon.

· Click here to view the profile and other works by Martha L. Calderon.
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