Tormenta Womenswear Collection by Jef Montes

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DESIGN DETAILS
DESIGN NAME:
Tormenta

PRIMARY FUNCTION:
Womenswear Collection

INSPIRATION:
The inspiration of Tormenta was my personal connection with the maritime industry. My grandfather used to work in Spain as a fisherman. During his retirement he constructed several miniature ships. The womenswear collection is inspired by the construction process of ships. The materials were produced in collaboration with TextileLab Tilburg and categorized into 6 material categories. Each category has its own technique. The only thing in common is that they are all connected with patterns of sails. The material development is more a technical process, and the converting into design is more an intuitive process. The shapes and textures change identity and become alive when contact with water. The materials adapt to the human body and deform naturally. Abstract visual communication based on the energy coming from within and translating into light waves on the materials. Tormenta explores a deeper connection between the wearer and responsive materials. The materials are non seasonal and keep on expanding with every new project. The inspiration for the shoes were also based on the pattern of a sail. This pattern was applied to design the construction. The shoes were 3d printed and afterwards completed with leather handcraft technique.

UNIQUE PROPERTIES / PROJECT DESCRIPTION:
Tormenta starts with material research. All 6 material categories are based on the pattern of a sail. Each sail burst into different shapes and textures. All materials were developed in collaboration with TextileLab. The goal was to create shape into the materials. Afterwards the materials were converted into fashion designs. The remaining materials were used to create material installations. The Tormenta 3d printed shoes were designed in collaboration with Chris van den Elzen and Shapeways.

OPERATION / FLOW / INTERACTION:
There are 6 material categories. Category # 1 shows white nylon and soluble transforming materials. Category # 2 shows black nylon material that looks and shines like leather. Category # 3 shows all the test versions combined from all 6 categories. Category # 4 shows smokey nylon material that looks and shines like mohair. Category # 5 shows red nylon materials that burst in several shapes and textures. Category # 6 show nylon and rubber materials that transforms into pleats.

PROJECT DURATION AND LOCATION:
The first test of Tormenta was shown during the D'days Paris exhibition in May 2015. More test versions were exhibited at the OCT Contemporary Art Gallery Shanghai in October 2015. The designs were shown at the IFS exhibition at Somerset house London in February 2016. Several previews were presented during Amsterdam Fashion Week in January and July 2016. The Tormenta collection was shown during Paris Fashion Week September 2017, and was exhibited at Musée des Arts Décoratifs in January 2018.

FITS BEST INTO CATEGORY:
Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design

PRODUCTION / REALIZATION TECHNOLOGY:
The materials are based on illusion. Sometimes when people look at it, they think it's leather or mohair. But it's actually thin tiny nylon that morphs textures. The nylon was recycled from old fishnets and produced with local manufactures. The nylons were afterwards brought to TextileLab. The machines were adjusted to be able to create all the materials. The materials were applied for material research, wearable designs, high fashion and material installations.

SPECIFICATIONS / TECHNICAL PROPERTIES:
Tormenta has 30 looks, European size 34 & 36. 15 dresses, 8 coats, 7 tops, 3 pants and 4 skirts. There are a few larger designs that are 1 size fits all. The largest designs have: a width of max 100 cm, a depth of max 100 cm and a height of max 100 cm. The European sizes of the Tormenta shoes are: 39, 40 and 41. There are 15 pairs of shoes available. 9 x size 39, 3 x size 40 and 3 x size 41. The material installation has a length of 180 cm, a width of 80 cm and a height of 300 cm.

TAGS:
#jefmontes, #tormenta, #stormaroundthebody, #swarovski, #philips, #woolmark, #shapeways, #creativeindustriesfundnl, #maritime, #materials, #hautecouture, #innovation, #conceptual, #wearable, #installationart, #object, #contemporaryart, #adesignaward, #fashion, #3dtextile, #smartmaterial

RESEARCH ABSTRACT:
Design luxury fabrics by using sustainable materials. Develop shape into the materials. I drape until I find the perfect fit to create for example: dresses, tops, skirts, pants or coats. All designed materials are 100% used to create wearable designs, but also high fashion and art objects. For the commercial part woman can buy wearable items, and the high fashion designs can be worn by celebrities. The material installations can be exhibited internationally and sold to art collectors or Museums.

CHALLENGE:
The most creative challenge was to accept and let go control in some parts of the design process. I learned that the most beautiful part of creating unique garments is to let the materials grow naturally. In this case Tormenta was born because of a technical flaw that occurred during the weaving process. Within the blueprints I can control every aspect about what I think is going to happen. But the final stage happens when the garments personalizes to the individuals body shape.

ADDED DATE:
2018-06-14 12:01:15

TEAM MEMBERS (14) :
Creative director: Jef Montes, Assistant: Kevin Pleiter, Programmer: Judith Peskens, Show production director: Kim Vos, Casting director: Michelle den Hollander, Show production coordinator: Diek Pothoven, Casting director assistant: Py Tswang Jin, Show production coordinator assistant: Zoë Mesman, Intern: Michael de Geus, Intern: Rosa Kampinga, Intern: Eva Gerritsen, Intern: Elke Cloin, Intern: Stijn Koks and Intern: Leontien Berns

IMAGE CREDITS:
Image #1: Photographer: Team Peter Stigter, 2017
Image #2: Photographer: Team Peter Stigter, 2017
Image #3: Photographer: Team Peter Stigter, 2017
Image #4: Photographer: Team Peter Stigter, 2017
Image #5: Photographer: Team Peter Stigter, 2017

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CLIENT/STUDIO/BRAND DETAILS
NAME:
Jef Montes

PROFILE:
Adaptive skins is a textile architecture studio based in Arnhem with a strong focus on responsive materials. All designed and tested materials are converted into wearable designs, high fashion and material installations. Illusion, shape and transformation play an important factor in the design process. The materials are non seasonal and keep on expanding. In 2012 Montes graduated with honors degree from ArtEZ institute of the arts Arnhem. After graduating Montes founded his label to focus on developing his signature. With the support of Philips Lighting he started creating experimental materials from his own studio in Arnhem. Illuminosa was created in 2013 and presented as the national debut collection at Amsterdam Fashion Week January 2014. Velero was designed and developed in collaboration with TextileLab Tilburg. This project was based on his passion and personal connection with the maritime industry. The collection was created in 2014 and presented in Amsterdam February 2015. In 2016 Montes presented the Resolver experiment and the Tormenta preview. The concept of Tormenta reflects a ”Storm around the body” and consists of 6 nylon material categories that were recycled from fishing nets. Tormenta was presented as the international debut collection during Paris Fashion Week & FIAC October 2017. In 2018 collection Tormenta was updated and presented at the Hyères International Festival in France.

NOMINATION DETAILS

Tormenta Womenswear Collection by Jef Montes is a Nominee in Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design Category.

· This project is currently confidential as results have not been announced yet. Images and further details of the project is not available for public yet, please check back later. If you are the owner of this design, please login to view the images.

· The profile and other works by Jef Montes is also kept secret. This information will also be available later.
AWARD DETAILS

Tormenta Womenswear Collection by Jef Montes is Winner in Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design Category, 2018 - 2019.



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