DESIGN NAME: Adrift
PRIMARY FUNCTION: Necklace
INSPIRATION: This piece began a year and a half ago with a visit to Dieter Lorenz at his studio in Idar Oberstein, Germany. I saw the chalcedony on his bench and knew I had to have it. It has gone through a few ideas till an epiphiny while at an ocean beach near my home created the spark that lead to it's final form. I knew it needed to move yet still be stable so it is hinged at the top it also needed space therefore the torque. It became a very meditative and involving piece to create.
UNIQUE PROPERTIES / PROJECT DESCRIPTION: An 18kt yellow gold and platinum, handmade necklace set with a hand carved blue chalcedony stone by noted German lapidary Dieter Lorenz and a 9.41 ct. cabochon Sri Lankan peridot, accented by small diamonds both on the centre section and at the edges of the opposing end.
OPERATION / FLOW / INTERACTION: The design was created to be easy and comfortable to wear with the centre hinged to facilitate the movement of the breastbone.
PROJECT DURATION AND LOCATION: This project evolved over a period of a year starting in late 2016 and finishing January 6th 2018. It has yet to be exhibited but pictures of the finished piece have been sent to Dieter Lorenz, the chalcedony's carver to great pleasure.
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PRODUCTION / REALIZATION TECHNOLOGY: The necklace was entirely handmade and cold forged using traditional goldsmithing techniques such as rolling mills, drawplates and hard soldering. The greatest challenge was creating a setting for the chalcedony which was safe, strong and showed the stone to it's best potential while adding to the overall flow of the design.
SPECIFICATIONS / TECHNICAL PROPERTIES: The overall porportions of the necklace are 13.5 cms x 17.5 cms There are 61 round brilliant cut diamonds ranging from 0.015 - 0.008cts bead set into platinum, Clarity VVS2, colour E-F The chalcedony measures approximately 41.1 x 25.3 mm and the peridot wieghs 9.41 cts.
TAGS: Sculptural, Blue Chalcedony, Peridot, 18 kt gold and platinum, Unique, Diamonds,
RESEARCH ABSTRACT: As with all my work the process is an exercise in abstraction, of combining structural forms with the natural world. I knew the necklace needed to be a torque and it's end needed to somewhat reflect and complement the chalcedony's form. The colours and hues of the green and blue are defined by the line of diamonds and the yellow of the gold. Inspiration comes from the world around me, the ocean, the forest, artists such as Miro and Klee, the deconstruction of the familiar to create something new.
CHALLENGE: The greatest challenge was the chalcedony and how to be able to set it whithout taking away from it's form. Being an organic sculpture with little if any flat areas the process of finding an effective solution became the overall crucial link to the final design. Once decided on the route the rest of the design fell into place quickly.
ADDED DATE: 2018-01-17 17:56:36
TEAM MEMBERS (1) : I am indebted to Thomas Heys for the diamond bead setting.
IMAGE CREDITS: All photos by Paul de Goutiere and Francis Sullivan.
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