DESIGN NAME: Redefine Femininity
PRIMARY FUNCTION: Fashion
INSPIRATION: The concept inspiration of the project is coming from corsetry. In eighteenth century, wearing a loose-lacing corset is considered innocent and immature. The motivation behind the women’s dress is for status and attraction of men. Thus, I want to show the sexual and romantic side of women but in harsh and powerful side. The design inspiration come from Sculptural fashion. Iris Van Herpen and Alexander McQueen is my aspiration.
UNIQUE PROPERTIES / PROJECT DESCRIPTION: “Redefine Femininity” explores the relationship between the body and the shapes of clothing in order to give a new meaning of sexuality and femininity by creating new modern forms of clothing. Women in tight-fitted and hourglass shape are always represented to be sexy and feminine. To break the boundary, the silhouette of this collection is either outrageous or flat rectangular shape pattern without any darts and seams. Not just being sexually attractive, do women still show her own traits and personalities through the modern and unusual shapes of clothing.
OPERATION / FLOW / INTERACTION: Experimentation is carried out with design and sketches. For the laser cut patterns, I sketch my own patterns and try it out on papers before really working on the right format in computer for the laser cut machine. After the having some swatches, I play around the sample on dummy and pattern to explore more design options. Through the experiments, I use rivets to create the turn out effects and the 3-dimensional forms instead of just flat surface of laser cut. Draping is another crucial element in this project. Through 3D modeling technique, I do the draping design on dummy and try to mix my two key design elements in order to get a coherent collection.
PROJECT DURATION AND LOCATION: The project is my final MA project starting from Feb 2016 till Sept 2016. The research, concept and experimentation takes 4-5 months. The actual duration to make the whole collection done is 3-4 months. Besides, there are two collaborations with London photographers in Nov 2016.
FITS BEST INTO CATEGORY: Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design
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PRODUCTION / REALIZATION TECHNOLOGY: In terms of innovation and modern technology, the laser cut is integrated into fashion to create the cut-out designs to reveal different parts of body to gain the sexuality. Moreover, the techniques of 3D modeling and draping are experimented alongside with laser cut to achieve the voluminous and interesting forms of body. The bonded fabric is key material for the laser cut pattern and neoprene is a modern fabric for creating shapes.
SPECIFICATIONS / TECHNICAL PROPERTIES: The design is sculptural and voluminous. To achieve the shape and volume, various elements are combining together, for examples, the different scales of laser cut-out patterns, draping, darts and studs. To enhance the effect of the turn-out detail, the bonding technique is applied to gain two colors on different sides of fabric. Besides white and black, dusty pink is highlighted for the feeling of modern femininity. However, the style has the touch of being edgy and harsh with the design of studs and unusual shapes.
TAGS: sculptural fashion, laser cut, modern fashion, draping, laser cut fashion
RESEARCH ABSTRACT: For the research part, the concept base comes from books and theoretical texts for the history of corsetry, details and patterns. Besides, I conduct the archival research of corsets through “The Clothworkers” centre which belongs to V&A museum in London. V&A also organised an exhibition “Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear” which is perfect fit to me research. I also try to make a traditional corset to do the experimental research. For the design part, visual images will be the main research inspiration alongside with experimentations.
CHALLENGE: The first research challenge is that most of the concept research is from books and text. To solve it, the archival research is a good solution but there are a lots limitations. I could only see six items a time without touch of the archive and the appointment takes a month to wait. Nevertheless, it runs an in-depth analysis of the topic at the end. For the designs, laser cut fashion is not a new thing, how could I transform it into something new and modern is really challenging. Experimentations help solving a lot technical problems to realise the design from sketch. The biggest challenge is time as I just have around 3 months for finalising all the designs and making 8 outfits in total.
ADDED DATE: 2017-09-24 13:04:49
TEAM MEMBERS (1) :
IMAGE CREDITS: Image #1 Paz Vaira, Redefine Femininity, 2016
Image #2 Paz Vaira, Redefine Femininity, 2016
Image #3 Paz Vaira, Redefine Femininity, 2016
Image #4 Paz Vaira, Redefine Femininity, 2016
Image #5 William Gillingham-Sutton, Redefine Femininity, 2016
Video credit: Aurelia Bergs, Redefine Femininity, 2016
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