I am fascinated by the idea of creating an original design using a well-known shape.
The design for this ring was born out of a desire to use a traditional geometric shape. In this case the triangle was used in a new composition to create a unique ring form.
Through the repetition of the triangle and its study in 3D I arrived at the form of the tetrahedron as the defining shape for this ring.
I further extrapolated the use of the triangle by making most complimentary elements of the ring triangular in section.
UNIQUE PROPERTIES / PROJECT DESCRIPTION:
The objective of this design was to integrate the sharp lines of the tetrahedron to the organic shape of the human finger while still retaining the essence of this geometric shape.
This was achieved by creating a complex non-linear geometry that remains simple in appearance.
The result is an object that is visually striking in its unique aesthetic yet remarkably ergonomic.
OPERATION / FLOW / INTERACTION:
The idea is that whoever wears this ring will feel that emptiness is as important as solidity. The rigour of the sharp geometric form contrasts with the fluidity with which the ring gently hugs the finger, striving to inspire a sense of awe and surprise in the wearer.
PROJECT DURATION AND LOCATION:
This project started in Oxford-UK in September 2016 and it was finished in Sao Paulo-Brazil in November 2016.
PRODUCTION / REALIZATION TECHNOLOGY:
From a hand sketch I went on to CAD/CAM software. I used a cylinder with the diameter of my finger to model the ring around. It took 50 hours.
The design was then printed in wax in three sections, which were then cast in 18 kt rose gold.
I was very hard to find a long enough gemstone rough and then to find a supplier who had an uncut tourmaline. I had to travel 560 miles from Sao Paulo to a small mining city in the heart of Brazil.
Next stage was to laser weld all of the elements together (and involved having to make a “skirt” around the widest part of the tourmaline to then laser weld it to the inside of the ring).
SPECIFICATIONS / TECHNICAL PROPERTIES:
Length 33.5mm x width 21.4mm x height 31.3mm
Height from top of the finger to top of o the Tetrahedron 12mm
Materials are 18 karat rose gold, Brazilian green tourmaline and white diamonds
contemporary fine jewelry, geometric ring, green tourmaline ring, contemporary gemstone ring, statement ring
I look at the the design process of a piece of jewelry as a whole. I explore every detail, from the shape of the metal sections to the shape of the gemstones. In many cases, such as this one, I also design the shape of the gemstone.
As this design was led by triangular sections I explored the 3D shapes created by joining multiple triangles and was attracted to the symmetry and sharpness of the tetrahedron.
I was also inspired by the challenge to use this shape in a innovative way to create a visually striking but wearable and comfortable ring.
At first I thought integrating the geometric shape of the tetrahedron to the organic form of the human finger - which took around 50 hours - would be the most challenging part of this design. However, I didn't expect to be so hard to find a precious coloured gemstone that would fit the necessary requirements to be cut in the size and shape of the tetrahedron.
TEAM MEMBERS (1) :
All images by Amanda Gerbasi, 2017