Menswear Jacket and Trousers
The visual arts hold so much power in being able to spread messages and evoke social change, and so often fails to do so. It’s so important, now more than ever to go against the grain, vocalise what you know to be right.
This project is a narration of gay youth, and how being in a lonely and alienating city can make you do the craziest things in search of something meaningful and genuine. It’s about the relationship between drugs, sex and lowered inhibitions.
UNIQUE PROPERTIES / PROJECT DESCRIPTION:
It challenges traditional tailoring and gender conformity by incorporating latex facings, exposed pad stitching and beautifully accomplished embroidery alongside conventional tailoring cloth
OPERATION / FLOW / INTERACTION:
As with any bespoke garment, the wearer knows the impeccable rise in standard when compared with a ready to wear piece. A bespoke garment is said to outlive the wearer, down to the labour hours involved in the construction process, but often fails to possess the creative design features of ready-to-wear. This collection encompasses both, giving the wearer not only an unparalleled quality level, but the ability to break down barriers of the conventional suit, and alter perceptions. The collection is not for the faint of heart, and deserves to have a wearer that mirrors it's decadent, unruly perfection.
PROJECT DURATION AND LOCATION:
The Project Started in September 2015 in London, and finished in June 2016
FITS BEST INTO CATEGORY:
Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design
PRODUCTION / REALIZATION TECHNOLOGY:
The latex facings I have used represent the fetishistic element of the garment, and went against the idea of traditional tailoring. It was incredibly difficult to decide on a way of securing the facing, as opposed to fabric, latex weakens and distorts with punctured holes. The way I decided to do this was to line up the edge of the latex flush with the seam allowance and fold the main fabric over the top, place a strip of satin tape and hand fell. This results in the lapel having a small border, but remains effective.
SPECIFICATIONS / TECHNICAL PROPERTIES:
chemsex, menswear, bespoke tailoring, fashion design, baby pink, wired, fetish-meets-feminine
The entire collection is a project based on 'Chemsex', which is a prevalent phenomenon and has affected almost every gay youth in London, and is the systematic use of a combination of drugs to accompany sex.
The idea of the collection as a whole is for the garments to gradually get looser as the individual looses his inhibitions and become more hyper-sexualised. As the looks develop, so does the embroidery, as is starts to grow more 3D and uncontrollable as the looks progress.
Definitely being able to incorporate fabrics which are so disconnected from traditional tailoring methods such as latex into a marking criteria that is governed by conventional technique, and being able to convince my peers that my work is credible.
Tailoring is so steeped in hyper masculine ideals, and I relish in the opportunity to bring another idea or concept to something that has for hundreds of years remained the same.
TEAM MEMBERS (1) :
Embroiderer: Ami Waring
Photography: Stephen Maycock
Embroidery: Ami Waring