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Reinterpretation Of Changshan Garment by Tong Tong |
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| DESIGN DETAILS |
DESIGN NAME:
Reinterpretation Of Changshan
PRIMARY FUNCTION:
Garment
INSPIRATION:
This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
UNIQUE PROPERTIES / PROJECT DESCRIPTION:
While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
OPERATION / FLOW / INTERACTION:
The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
PROJECT DURATION AND LOCATION:
This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
FITS BEST INTO CATEGORY:
Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design
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PRODUCTION / REALIZATION TECHNOLOGY:
A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
SPECIFICATIONS / TECHNICAL PROPERTIES:
Full-body Length
TAGS:
Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
RESEARCH ABSTRACT:
Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
CHALLENGE:
The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
ADDED DATE:
2024-02-26 02:14:36
TEAM MEMBERS (1) :
Tong Tong
IMAGE CREDITS:
Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023
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| COMMENTS |
| Giulia Esposito |
Comment #100307 on June 22, 2024, 3:07 am |
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The remarkable reinterpretation of the Changshan by the winner of the A' Design Award in the Fashion, Apparel, and Garment Design category is a testament to the seamless blend of tradition and modernity. The innovative approach taken to preserve the iconic silhouette of the Changshan, while introducing modern tailoring techniques, showcases a deep respect for historical garments coupled with a forward-thinking design perspective. The introduction of vertical seams to control volume and the ingenious incorporation of in-seam pockets are particularly noteworthy, enhancing both the garment's functionality and aesthetic appeal. The choice of high-twist wool twill demonstrates a thoughtful consideration of material that not only respects the garment's traditional roots but also addresses the practical needs of contemporary wear. The meticulous research and dedication to overcoming design challenges, especially in achieving the perfect shape for the modified collar, highlight the designer's commitment to excellence and precision. This work brilliantly captures the essence of cultural heritage while making it relevant for today's fashion landscape. The efforts of Tong Tong and their team have certainly paid off, resulting in a garment that stands as a beacon of innovative design in the realm of fashion.
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| Chloe Turner |
Comment #100606 on June 22, 2024, 4:07 am |
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The recent unveiling of the "Reinterpretation Of Changshan" as an award-winning piece in the Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design category has truly captivated my attention and admiration. This design, which thoughtfully draws from the historic Changshan, a symbol of elegance and social standing in early 20th-century China, showcases an impeccable blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary design principles. The meticulous attention to the garment's silhouette, along with the modern reinterpretation of its dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and distinctive front opening, speaks volumes of the designer's creativity and profound understanding of cultural heritage. This work not only pays homage to a significant era of Chinese menswear but also sets a new standard in the fashion industry for how traditional elements can be seamlessly integrated into modern design. It is indeed inspiring to see such a thoughtful and innovative approach being recognized with a prestigious A' Design Award. This achievement is a testament to the designer's dedication to pushing the boundaries of fashion and apparel design.
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| Elisabeth Clark |
Comment #101364 on June 22, 2024, 6:39 am |
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It is with great admiration that I reflect upon Tong Tong's remarkable achievement in winning the A' Design Award for their work titled "Reinterpretation Of Changshan". This garment stands as a testament to the innovative fusion of tradition and modernity, demonstrating a profound respect for historical garments while pushing the boundaries of contemporary design. Tong Tong's meticulous approach, from the extensive historical research to the thoughtful integration of modern tailoring techniques, showcases a deep understanding of the Changshan's cultural heritage and an exceptional talent for design. The introduction of vertical seams, the reimagining of the traditional silhouette to enhance mobility, and the subtle yet impactful adjustments for modern practicality, all contribute to a design that not only respects its origins but also invites it into the present with elegance and style. This work not only pays homage to a significant piece of Chinese cultural attire but also sets a new standard for how traditional garments can be reinterpreted for the modern world. Tong Tong's dedication to preserving the essence of the Changshan while imbuing it with contemporary relevance is truly inspiring, and their success in achieving such a harmonious balance between the past and the present is certainly worthy of recognition.
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| Adam Harris |
Comment #101913 on June 22, 2024, 8:29 am |
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The reinterpretation of Changshan as an award-winning piece under the Fashion, Apparel, and Garment Design category at the A' Design Award truly exemplifies the harmonious blend of tradition with modernity, a testament to the designer's innovative approach and meticulous attention to detail. The introduction of vertical seams, the seamless integration of the stand collar with the body, and the discreet incorporation of in-seam pockets all contribute to a design that respects its historical roots while pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion. The thoughtful consideration of mobility through the addition of inverted pleats, alongside the strategic repositioning of the garment's front opening, showcases a deep understanding of functional aesthetics. It is inspiring to see how extensive historical research and a commitment to overcoming design challenges, particularly in achieving the perfect collar shape, have culminated in a garment that redefines a cultural classic. This work not only pays homage to the iconic Changshan but also sets a new standard for how traditional attire can be reimagined for the modern era.
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| Mark Allen |
Comment #102581 on June 22, 2024, 10:42 am |
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Congratulations on the well-deserved win at the A' Design Award in the Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design Category for the "Reinterpretation Of Changshan." This work brilliantly marries tradition with modernity, showcasing an innovative approach to the historical Changshan through meticulous tailoring and thoughtful design enhancements. The attention to detail, from the vertical seams that control volume to the incorporation of in-seam pockets and the refined neck area, demonstrates a profound respect for the garment's traditional roots while pushing boundaries to appeal to contemporary sensibilities. The dedication to historical research and the challenges overcome in the creation process highlight a commendable level of craftsmanship and creativity. This design not only pays homage to an iconic piece of cultural heritage but also sets a new standard for modern garment design.
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