DESIGN NAME: La Machine Cybernétique Feminine
PRIMARY FUNCTION: Womenswear Collection
INSPIRATION: This project aims to embody the paradigm of the feminine machine, mother of the digital age, drawing inspiration from the 1968 London exhibition Cybernetic Serendipity's revolutionary advancements in art-engineering collaboration. Womb, look 1, pays homage to Gordon Pask’s Colloquy of Mobiles (1968). Genesis, look 2, draws inspiration from Desmond Paul Henry’s Drawing Machine 1 series of the 1960s.
UNIQUE PROPERTIES / PROJECT DESCRIPTION: Using digital fabrication techniques, laser cutting and traditional craft methods, the design pairs digital technology and the most pervasive of human arts, clothing, with inorganically crisp edges that mimic organic curvatures. The material selection also experiments with moire and visual interference effects to emulate a feeling of demi-perpetual motion.
OPERATION / FLOW / INTERACTION: These designs are not just wearable fashions but may also be regarded as a pseudo-kinetic soft sculpture, as they are designed to highlight visual interference effects in motion.
PROJECT DURATION AND LOCATION: The project began in July 2020 in Atlanta, GA, and fabrication and construction were completed in April 2021 in Ithaca, NY. Look 1 was exhibited in the Jill Stuart Gallery at Cornell University in September 2021, and in the Cornell Fashion Collective (CFC) Milstein Runway Show in October 2021. Look 2 was exhibited in the CFC Milstein Runway Show in October 2022. Designs were photographed together in May 2023.
FITS BEST INTO CATEGORY: Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design
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PRODUCTION / REALIZATION TECHNOLOGY: The main technological applications used in the creation of this series are 3D digital garment development, digital pattern making and rendering, and laser cutting, and primarily utilized CLO3D, Optitex PDS, Adobe Illustrator, and Adobe Photoshop. These allowed for the communication of an artificial, computer-generated effect in the final physical garments, as well as greater overall control and precision over the patterning process.
SPECIFICATIONS / TECHNICAL PROPERTIES: The mini collection is 2 look womenswear, size 2 (look 1) and 4 (look 2).
TAGS: Fashion design, Creative design, digital fabrication, Cybernetics, Cybernetic Art, wearable art, wearable sculpture, moire, Op Art
RESEARCH ABSTRACT: This work focuses on integrating digital technology with traditional garment construction techniques in apparel design, as a means to embody the significance of the Cybernetic art of the late 1960s, which introduced the concept of art-engineering collaboration and birthed our modern digital age. This combination of fabrication techniques attempts to manifest a balance between the organic and artificial, while referencing the feminine harmony of technological nurture and artistic nativity.
CHALLENGE: The main challenge of this design process involved the communication between digital and analogue, and the navigation of the virtual-to-actual space relationship. An additional challenge was the application of traditional and couture construction techniques to unconventionally patterned and cut garments. The placement of closures, seam construction between the invisible tulle yokes and shell fabrics, and the bearing of fabric weight were especially challenging.
ADDED DATE: 2023-06-22 21:20:55
TEAM MEMBERS (1) :
IMAGE CREDITS: Image #No1: Photographer Anabelle Lau, 2023
Image #No2: Photographer Anabelle Lau, 2023
Image #No3: Photographer Anabelle Lau, 2023
Image #No4: Photographer Anabelle Lau, 2023
Image #No5: Photographer Anabelle Lau, 2023
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