DESIGN NAME: Gothic
PRIMARY FUNCTION: Handmade Winter Fabric
INSPIRATION: The inspiration for this collection comes from the style of Gothic architecture. The gothic style has one of the most distinctive architectural movements in the world with its aesthetically ornate and conceptually transcendent features. Gothic architecture usually consists of 5 five key architectural elements: stained glass windows, pointed arches, rib vaults, flying buttresses, and ornate decoration. Through various thicknesses, alternative weaving of materials, and a combination of felted wool, the architectural features of pointed arches, rib vaults, and flying buttresses in Gothic churches are highlighted in this collection. Embellished with different colors, the beauty of the feature of stained-glass windows is brought out. The use and fusion of pearls in knitted fabrics show the gorgeous style of Gothic architecture.
UNIQUE PROPERTIES / PROJECT DESCRIPTION: This collection is mainly handmade, playfully using an extraordinary way to present the style of Gothic architecture. This collection shows different applications of wool. Very chunky knit gives strong visual stimulation and attracts viewers’ attention to better understand the structure of knitting which is functional and efficient in keeping warm. The wool felt is combined with organza. It is made into a new fabric to maintain its thermal function and creates a visual contrast between thick and thin wool. It allows more people to feel the new definition of knitwear. Pearls are used as embellishments in the design. Instead of post-processing, the pearls are put on the yarn and then woven together with the yarn at the same time. Therefore, the pearls are stably put on the knitwear to prevent them from falling off.
OPERATION / FLOW / INTERACTION: Many items in this costume can be freely matched. In addition to clothes, there are different accessories for protection which are woven and made of wool or needle felting. Just like under heavy snow, people also wear thick clothes. Functionally, it can keep different body parts warm and fight against cold winter outdoors. Meanwhile, all the items can be easily taken off after getting indoors. Two items are made of organ fabric with different needle felting, which is convenient to wear for an indoor party. It helps to highlight the elegant and feminine side of the wearer. When paired with a thick hand-knit jacket, it creates a playful and unique image while maintaining the function of keeping warm.
PROJECT DURATION AND LOCATION: The project started in April 2013 and was completed in August 2014 in Hong Kong, and it was featured in the HKDI fashion Talent show 2014.
FITS BEST INTO CATEGORY: Fine Arts and Art Installation Design
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PRODUCTION / REALIZATION TECHNOLOGY: The majority of the materials in this collection is made of hand-knit and handmade, in which slivers of thick wool are used to knit. Since the wool slivers are thick while remaining light, the time for knitting is shortened and the light and warm qualities can be maintained. The yarn twisting process is omitted to reduce costs and energy. With the combination of handmade felting and organza, the colors and patterns can be more easily controlled to ensure each piece is unique. In the fine knitting part, various types of yarns and colors are used to enrich the layer of the whole design. Ecologically friendly materials are used, and some surplus wool materials are combined with pearls in the sphere form of felting or interspersed on the white part of different items for color matching to reduce waste.
SPECIFICATIONS / TECHNICAL PROPERTIES: This collection included five winter womenswear looks, and contains different items and accessories to match. Size is medium and over.
TAGS: fabric, fashion, wool, winter fabric, knitting, knitwear, handmade, hand-knit, fashion design, art
RESEARCH ABSTRACT: Since the wool is relatively thick, thicker knitting needles and crochet needles must be used for knitting, which is very difficult to find in the market. It took a while to find suitable tools. Eventually, knitting needles and bearded needles of suitable thickness with bamboo were used to solve the problem of thick wool knitting.
Different combinations of wool and knitted fabrics are also researched. In this collection, different handmade techniques can be seen, such as hand-woven color matching, special-shaped fabrics with felt balls and pearls mixing, and the combination of ribbons and knitted fabrics. The combination of digitally printed organ fabric and pearls is presented with the skills of hand-made garments by referring to the colors and light transmittance of the special architectural structure of the Gothic churches and the stained glass windows.
CHALLENGE: The sewing of different thicknesses of fabrics is one of the features of this collection, as well as a big challenge. Among them, it is necessary to twist the thick wool felt and pearls into organza appropriately to avoid any influence on the desired shape of the whole body. Apart from that, how to stitch fabrics of different thicknesses, and how many stitches should be together, were the points considered and paid special attention to. Among them, the yarn with pearls is woven synchronously with the other yarn, it requires extra attention to the placement of the pearls while knitting, otherwise the hand-crank knitting machine will be stuck.
ADDED DATE: 2022-03-14 14:41:52
TEAM MEMBERS (1) :
IMAGE CREDITS: Photographers: Hong Kong Design Institute's Photographer
PATENTS/COPYRIGHTS: Copyrights belong to Pim Ng, 2014
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