DESIGN NAME: Aromatics
PRIMARY FUNCTION: Textile for Interiors
INSPIRATION: While typically not represented by keepsakes, memories of food are some of Anushka’s strongest. Last year she tried to bring a feeling of comfort back to the isolated existence she experienced in Providence through food and cooking, in the midst of a global pandemic. Working with spices common in her family’s cooking and incorporating them into a textile allowed her to capture the comfort of scent; just the smell of a spice can trigger fond, powerful memories and transport you to a specific place and time.
UNIQUE PROPERTIES / PROJECT DESCRIPTION: Woven on the Jacquard Loom, Aromatics is filled with spices commonly used in Anushka’s family recipes. She designed a complex woven structure to form a 3-D gauze weave. This gauze is transparent & makes a pocket in the fabric that can be filled. Since the pockets are integrated in to the woven structure, the textile can be woven in one round, where no pockets have to be added after. Aromatics was made for a wall with the intention to fill up a space with warmth and envelope it in the aroma of spices.
OPERATION / FLOW / INTERACTION: Aromatics is an immersive, portable textile which a user can take with them anywhere and hang up to bring them comfort through the sense of scent. One can interact with the fabric through sight, smell and touch. The pockets are accessible and convenient, so the user has the option to change the contents. Apart from spices, incense, potpourri or flowers can be used. Spices retain scent for a long time, but the textile can be placed in front of a fan to disseminate the fragrance in the space.
PROJECT DURATION AND LOCATION: The project started in October 2020 in Providence and finished in May 2021 in Providence and was exhibited in Providence in June 2021 and New York in September 2021 for New York Textile Month
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PRODUCTION / REALIZATION TECHNOLOGY: Aromatics is an amalgamation of Handiwork as well as Technology. Painted artwork was translated in to fabric using Textile software. It is woven with Rayon, the gauze pockets are woven with monofilament to create a 3D effect. The gauze is sheer, so one can clearly see and smell the spices without getting close to the fabric. As the designer didn't want people to get close to the fabric due to Covid, she wove pouches for people to take away, ensuring the enjoyment of the aroma in the safety of their homes.
SPECIFICATIONS / TECHNICAL PROPERTIES: Aromatics Jacquard Dimensions: 1371.6 mm x 2011.68 mm
Aromatics Pouches Dimensions: 101.6 mm x 101.6 mm
Materials Used: Spun Rayon, Monofilament, Bay Leaves, Cardamom, Chilli, Cinnamon, Cloves, Coriander Seeds, Javentri, Kokum, Pepper, Star Anise
TAGS: Textile, Fiber, Fabric, Woven, Weaving, Cloth, Scent, COVID, Comfort, Jacquard, Spices
RESEARCH ABSTRACT: The COVID-19 Pandemic along with it brought upon an epidemic of isolation. As a graduate student 8000 miles away from home, Anushka Divecha turned to food to comfort herself. Turning to food in times of distress is not an uncommon act, psychologists have deemed it a survival tactic. Food memories are said to be some of the most powerful, as they encompass all five senses. These memories are so compelling, as their nature isn’t only shaped by survival, but also the context, the company, the place and emotion.
As a textile artist, she used food and sensorial memories to evoke place and time, to make home almost palpable- within reach. She not only wanted to invite people to experience the warmth of her kitchen, but wanted to design a fabric that they could take, easily transport & use in their spaces to comfort themselves when they felt isolated. This textile is the materialisation of nostalgia through food.
CHALLENGE: The biggest challenge while designing this textile was figuring out the most balanced weave structure that would result in both- A sturdy cloth that would hold all the spices as well as a gauze that would be loose/transparent enough for the spices to be seen, but tight enough to hold the spices. Multiple samples were made and different woven structures were tested before reaching the conclusion to use a strong satin weave with a gauze that uses 1/3 of the warp threads. An acute knowledge of colour theory and mixing was also required while designing the fabric, as it was important to get the most amount of colour in the fabric, with limited cones of yarn. Colour studies of spices were painted to determine what colours would work together. Experimentation with different combinations of spices at different quantities was also carried out to determine which ones together had the most harmonious, balanced scent.
ADDED DATE: 2021-12-11 20:49:11
TEAM MEMBERS (1) :
IMAGE CREDITS: Image #1 Photographer Josephine Sittenfeld, Aromatics, 2021
Image #2 Photographer Josephine Sittenfeld, Aromatics, 2021
Image #3 Photographer Josephine Sittenfeld, Aromatics, 2021
Image #4 Photographer Josephine Sittenfeld, Aromatics, 2021
Image #5 Photographer Anushka Divecha, Aromatics, 2021
PATENTS/COPYRIGHTS: Copyrights belong to Anushka Divecha, 2021.
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