DESIGN NAME: Raja Collection
PRIMARY FUNCTION: Apparel and Clothing
INSPIRATION: This apparel design is inspired by the Dumbara motifs established by the Dumbara weavers of Sri Lanka. During the Kandyan Kingdom this special indigenous weave was only offered to the king and the elite of Sri Lanka on coverlets, carpets, tapestries, and belts of chieftains. To bring these apparel motifs into modern day clothing and make the weavers work with modern day requirements, the designer came up with this apparel design and clothing project.
UNIQUE PROPERTIES / PROJECT DESCRIPTION: This apparel design project establishes a new set of motifs to the craft of Dumbara fabric. This project allows for the exploration of a unique homespun cotton cloth that reflects the royal culture of Sri Lanka. The possibilities of Dumbara are limitless. This apparel design stands out from other fabric motifs by creating a special language with motifs reflecting the local culture and creating engagement with its wearer.Whilst adopting the process, the primary functionality is to create less time-consuming, affordable fabric.
OPERATION / FLOW / INTERACTION: This collection allows the user to reflect pride in wearing an indigenous craft that was worn by the Royal families and chieftains in the Kandyan period of Sri Lanka. The unique cloth reflects culture and pride. The modified motifs reinforce meaning to each wearer’s personality. The flexibility of the design motifs allows for the adaptation of the Dumbara weave technique to different applications such as belts, neck scarves, clothing and accessories.
PROJECT DURATION AND LOCATION: The project commenced on January 2023 in Colombo, Sri Lanka, and finished in December 2023. It was launched in December 2023 as a limited-edition online collection.
FITS BEST INTO CATEGORY: Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design
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PRODUCTION / REALIZATION TECHNOLOGY: The process of manufacturing the fabric with a new set of motifs to create a contemporary language, together with cost-effective reproduction was considered in this project. Understanding the authentic Dumbara weave and reconstructing the motifs to a meaningful set of language conveying the special features of the craft was expected.
Thickness of weave and material had to match modern day requirements. Fabric gauge varied according to application. Pattern distance close to avoid thread damage. Minimal motif repetition per meter of fabric considering labour cost. Design specification planned at 5 inch spacing of design breathing space. To create a piece of cloth, motifs’ design structure consciously changed to simple motifs to achieve durable, minimal design. Production limited to handmade weaving machine with traditional cotton spun. Warp, typical black & white to render the motifs arranged by hand on a traditional wooden warp roll and thread frame. Traditional manual methods used to preserve authentic weave of traditional weavers
SPECIFICATIONS / TECHNICAL PROPERTIES: Cotton spun durable fabric with authentic modified weave. 30-inch width to reduce the cost of fabric and to make use of maximum of warp. Wearable authentic fabric for tropical weather conditions. Minimal repetition of motifs was planned for one meter of fabric considering the cost of labor and design specification planned at 5 inch spacing of design breathing space. Jackets, dress, skirt and top finished at UK size 12 and 10 with 30 inch 2 meters and 1.5 meters. Scarves were produced at 30 inch and 2 meters to fit the 5 inch warp bands.
TAGS: Timeless designer fabric, wearable sustainable fashion, authentic, innovative textile.
RESEARCH ABSTRACT: This project allows to experiment traditional homespun cotton fabric with authentic weaving techniques passed down by generations that was only available for the aristocrats during 14th century in Kandy-Sri Lanka, to create wearable art and accessories. The authentic weave manipulated to suit modern day fashion and cost-effective clothes. Interview and observation method with literature review are the research methods used to identify textile structures and motifs to retain the authenticity. By exploring possibilities of creating a language with authentic motifs was another objective of this project and produce simple styles to suit modern fashion requirement. Limited number of weavers were available in the village of Dumbara to explore the craft. The result of the new textile that was produced was adaptable to modern day fashion with minimal and simplified motifs. It is adaptable to produce modern patterns and structures for contemporary designs.
CHALLENGE: The challenge was to create lightweight, wearable fabric from what it was originally used for; wall hangings and carpets for the palace. The gauge of the fabric and the maximum use of warp was considered to create cost-effective durable fabric to meet with today’s lifestyle. To create a language with the motifs was also a difficult task as each motif was modified and experimented with by the weavers for application and practicality. The width of the fabric was also limited due to the cost of raw material and wastage.
Internal factors for research such as availability of traditional weavers and authentic weaving equipment was limited due to the practice of passing down the technique within the family, many members of whom are now engaged in more lucrative professions. Therefore, research was limited to museum pieces and observation and knowledge that had been passed from families within the community.
ADDED DATE: 2023-07-28 18:30:02
TEAM MEMBERS (1) :
IMAGE CREDITS: Image#1: Photographer Malaka Premasiri. Raja Collection - Ruby,2023.
Image#2:Photographer Malaka Premasiri, Raja Collection - Royal blue, 2023.
Image#3: Photographer Malaka Premasiri, Raja Collection - Sheild, 2023.
Image#4: Photographer Malaka Premasiri, Raja Collection - Kumari,2023.
Image#5: Photographer Malaka Premasiri, Raja Collection - Ivory,2023.
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